About Me

I’ve been a Ford Mustang fox-body owner since I got my license in 1990.  Three fox-bodies later, and I currently own a 1991 LX convertible 5.0L Mustang.  Back in the day, I was into speed and hole-shots.  I had visited Westhampton 1/4 mile drag strip a few times with my 1986 Mustang GT.  Soon after, it closed down and street racing was the only alternative, unless you wanted to drive to Englishtown, New Jersey.  Which we did, and the 2 hour drove wasn’t too bad.  But it was the 4 hour drive home Sunday night that was torture…especially if it’s in the car you were just racing all day!  Nowadays, I’m into road racing  and autocross.  AutoX is fun and is very convenient since it is held at Nassau Coliseum and Tobay Beach, also at Metlife Stadium in New Jersey.  It is a lot of fun and very addicting.  After trying once….your hooked.  Road racing on the other hand, is a different animal.  There is several organizations that help to get you on the track, but basically starting out with HPDE (high performance driving education) days is the best start.  And the nearest road coarse tracks are NJ Motorsport, Pocono, Lime Rock and Watkins Glen.

I now work in the TV industry and love cars, especially Ford Mustangs.  So, shooting video and editing comes easy, photography is also a hobby I enjoy.   So incorporating this with my love of cars and racing is only for fun for me.  I hope to inform people with this blog, if nothing else I hope it adds amusement or ideas for other fox-body owners.

I created this blog to help others, there’s so much info on the internet, sometimes conflicting.  I hope at least my trials help you.  I have linked a lot of manufacturers names to their websites to help.  I’m not sponsored but I don’t mind passing on products I like or work well.

Me

Replayman

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22 thoughts on “About Me

    1. I love the IRS over the TA and PHB. I cannot say that it is worth the difference, since the swap requires a lot of work and pricey parts. Over stock…it is certainly worth every penny, especially the upgrade in rear disk brakes, new cat-back and taller gears. But, back your question…the difference over a modified rear. The IRS biggest improvement is for sure the daily driving on ordinary roads. A SA rear makes for a very harsh ride. The IRS makes a very stiff suspension, much more tolerable and enjoyable. And that’s the majority of driving I do…leisure trips, car shows and cruises. I’m an occasional weekend warrior at the track and autocross events. As for the IRS at the track…the car handles more predictable and solid around corners. The old set up with TA & PHB would have more tendency to want to slide out or require less speed. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the ability to test both set ups side-by-side or under exact conditions to get a fair, accurate conclusion. But, this is the best I can give with my experience and as clear and simple as I can describe. Hope this helps. Any questions, please ask. I’m sure others have the same.

  1. Checking out the video on youtube regarding the new 3 bolt holes for the IRS bracket. I see how he cut and moved up the upper bolt.. He shows the new metal stock with the two new 7/16 holes but I could not see those installed. On the video after 7:10 when you zoom in.. I dont see the newer hole bracket he made installed. Also look at 7:22 another greet shot.. No plates. I have a feeling this was a shot cut from earlier in the stage. how did he installed the bottom plate? the plate with the 2 new 7/16 holes? is the new stock inside the frame rail like the single top bolt or is it welded to the bottom of the frame rail?

    1. Well, when I was shooting this. I wasn’t planning on making a step-by-step DIY video. I just wanted to document the install and have something for the shop for their website. The article in MM&FF was supposed to be the “how to” install. But, I shot so much stuff, then I figured I couldn’t rush over certain details when editing…I guess I got a bit detailed in the video. That’s why it’s 10 minutes long…LOL. If you listen to his audio before he does the drilling, Rob explains his game plan. And the lower bracket slides inside the frame and lines up to the 2 bottom holes. Just like the side nut is inside and welded to the frame. The lower bracket is inside, thats why you don’t see it. I show video of him inserting it through the large oval opening that he drills out for the side hole. Unfortunately, I don’t have the exact moment when it gets fully inserted and lined up. Rob test fitted so many times I missed the finishing moment. Anyway, I think this answers your question.

  2. how much was the coyote swap all together im looking to do the same in my 1992 gt and id like to go with a t56 magnum… any and all help is much appreciated

      1. Hey Replayman, i’m looking to do a swap in the future on my 1988 notch. I have a new tank and 255LPH pump on order. What fuel lines did you use? i’m looking to slowly prep the car before the motor. Thanks.

      2. I know the fuel system was from Forte…regulator, filter, etc.. The lines were -8 AN stainless steal lines that don’t sweat. Some cheap lines will sweat and give you a smell of fuel. Not positive if they’re from Forte or not. I can find out and will post. Also, make sure your 255 lph pump is a “high pressure” 255 lph pump and not a standard. There are 2 different kinds and it’s important to have the high pressure.

    1. I am really happy with the Dakota console. I like that it looks stock, but more modern looking and it looks awesome at night. I especially like it for racing at the track. Each gauge has parameters set and will warn you if anything goes beyond these settings. For instance, water temp is set at a Max. of 250*. So if my engine gets hotter than 250*, warning indicators go off in the display. Thats great when racing, you don’t have a lot of time to keep an eye on multiple gauges. What I don’t like, is I wish the needles were colored red, just to break up the blue lighting of the gauges….everything is blue!

    1. Sorry, I currently do not. But I might be able to do something. I especially like the extras in the console. It currently tracks 0-60, 1/4 times, highest speed, highest rpm and you can add a GPS device for more expandability.

      1. you got my email.. send me something if you can.. I dont need anything large.. 1 minute long is good enough for me. Did you get the dimmer option? if so does it make any difference?

        You can also text me the video.. I think i emailed you before with my #

    1. The rear wheels are Ford OEM Bullits off a 2005-2010 S197 Mustang. They are 17×8 with a +45mm offset and 6.295″ backspacing. They are 28 lbs. and fit perfectly with the IRS.

  3. Hey thanks for the reply, a standard 255 won’t work? I guess I can return it and get a high pressure, what’s the major difference? Can you get 6AN lines and create more pressure? Is there a way that I can contact you like text or something I feel like I’m going to have many questions, if you don’t mind helping. Thanks! Anthony

    1. A standard 255 lph pump won’t be enough, has to be a high pressure pump or a larger lph pump. The OEM Mustang lines are 6AN, that does not creat more pressure. The shop that did my swap felt a 255 high pressure pump was adequate, but changing the line to a larger 8 AN would ensure enough gas and the motor would not starve. Keep in mind the shop was going to be responsible for the work and did not want to build anything that could be damaged down the road, especially if I decided to do some engine mods. Also, this was done before Coyote Swaps were common. You may want to get a 2nd opinion, maybe there is a more definitive application. I know my shop was being precautions.
      Feel free to contact me anytime. Replayman91lx@yahoo.com

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