Plasti-Dip rims today

Because my car required a different offset in the rear due to the IRS, I had to get a 2nd set of Bullit rims from a S197…to match the front Bullit rims on my car that are from a SN95.  This left me with full set of matching Bullit rims as a spare set.  I plan on getting a set of R-Compound racing tires for these rims for track use and really wanted something different than the identical kind I drive on now.  Strapped for cash, I decided to just change the color of the spare set and be done with it.

Lately, I’ve been reading up on this rubber spray called Plasti-Dip.  There’s a lot of videos on Youtube and sites like Dipyourcar…that showcase this spray.  It seems pretty cool, and there’s a lot of pro’s to it…so I decided to give it a try on my spare set of Bullit rims for my LX.  I tend to like the matte black look and it hides the brake dust perfectly, and price difference to powder-coating is way cheaper.  I could also paint my rims, but that is more permanent, and still requires a lot of prep work and scuffing, that permanently ruins the wheel.  Plasti-dip just needs a clean surface and bonds to all materials, including chrome lips, very easily.  Best of all it peels off and the wheel is as it was before, in perfect condition.  I went out to Home Depot and purchased 3 cans for $8 each and started spraying.

Wheels before

Wheels plast-dip

1st coat


After 4 coats



Had to also spray the inside of the barrel





Custom Splitter For My Mustang Fox-body

A big thing on the new Mustangs lately is a front splitter.  Although, not very functional as they’re supposed to be, everybody seems to appreciate their aesthetics.  Maybe only on the Boss 302 Leguna Seca Edition, does the large splitter help down force, on much of the GT’s and Shelby’s, they just look cool.

I decided to give it a try on my ’91.  No aftermarket companies make one for the fox-body, as it is relatively new in popularity.  I purchased a new 2010-2012 Roush front splitter from LRS.  Because it is for a S197 I knew it would not fit properly, especially the sides.  So, it would have to be trimmed somewhat.


I was able to get the car on the lift at RealSpeed Auto, and we centered, lined up, and drew lines where we needed to trim.



Use a some kind of cutter, multi-tool or jigsaw and cut away.


Use a light sander to clean edges



We used all the original mounting points on the splitter, and just drilled holes in my bumper.  All locations we were able to slip our hand and add a nylon locking washer to secure it.  Just one screw up front is screwed in the bumper without a nut.  It is very sturdy and holds very well.




I have to find some kind of black rubber trim for the sides.  Up close the sides look like they were cut, a piece of trim would hide that and look a bit better.




DC Controler arrived

DC Control fan control unit install

One of my favorite buys for the LX was a Ford OEM electric fan.  I originally had a Be Cool electric fan and relay control, but this actually caused problems with the idle.  Every time the fan kicked on, the idle would drop, and with a custom tune.  Nothing could be done to remedy this, because I have a Fox-body EFI with a OBD-I ECU.  These cars came with a factory clutch fan, the OBD-II or later SN95 Mustangs had an electric fan that the computer controlled or monitored.

Anyway, the fix for this was to either get a different relay control…one that turned the fans on slowly and ramped up to speed.  Because the sudden power draw was effecting the idle.  Or try a different fan.  I opted for the latter, scoured the junk yards and found a late model e-fan from a Cougar.  The holy grail of e-fans is the Ford Contour, but I settled for this $70 Ford OEM fan.  Glad I did, it literally blows away my $300 Be Cool fan away!  And, my idle problem was no more

2000 Cougar electric fan

Until down the road this was discovered….pictured below.  I had kept my BE Cool fan relay kit, but a short put an end to that.  Possibly water along side the fender wall contributed to this, too many lengthy car washes I think.  A better mounting place would have been the way to go.  But, now I needed a new fan control.  Online I’ve read great reviews for DC Control‘s unit, but also read bad review on their customer service and delivery period.

Burnt fan fuse

Burnt fan fuse

I decided this was the best route, DC’s unit is variable speed controlled, has a very accurate temp probe and from what I understand…very well made and actually homemade…accounting for long delivery time.  So, I placed my order along with some accessories and waited.  And wait I did, exactly one month, but it eventually came and with everything I ordered plus instructions.

DC Controler arrived

The DC Control unit mounted at the bottom of the electric fan.

DC Controler installed

I highly recommend the extra add-on accessory…the L101 indicator light…for inside the cabin.   I mounted it along the right side of the steering column in eyes view.  This indicator single-LED bulb lights green when you first start your car and the motor gets up to running temperatures.

DC Control module

It then changes color to yellow when the controller output increases slightly, and the fan starts to turn on (sorry the actual color does not look good in my pics)

DC Control module

As the motor get hotter and closer to regular operating temp, the fan spins faster and the light changes to orange

DC Control module

At final operating temp., approx. 190-200 degrees, the fan is operating at full and the LED is bright red.  And when you shut off the car at this temp., the fan will run for a short brief period…even when you remove the key.  It is only for maybe 30 seconds or so.

DC Control module



By replayman Posted in Motor

IRS Install: Final touches

Everything is in and it fits…what a success!  Final alignment touches are being done.  The last steps are to weigh and measure for the car’s final numbers.  Rob weighed the car and the final weight was 3375 lbs..  That is 48 lbs. heavier than the initial 3327 lbs. it originally weighed in at.


Mustang LX  (w/ torque arm & panhard bar)         3327 lbs.

Mustang LX (with IRS)                                            3375 lbs.

Difference                                                               +48 lbs.

One of the advantages of installing coil-overs, is that we can adjust the height on each spring.  Raising or lowering each corner also transfers weight from front-to-back and side-to-side, just like NASCAR when they add or take away wedge.  This is a bit time consuming…going back and forth adjusting each corner.  It’s first done with sway-bars disconnected, then when re-installed weight gets shifted, so more tweaking is necessary.  You also need to do this driver.  In the end, we got a very good ride height, stance and the best weight balance we thought was capable.

Front Left = 1037 lbs.               Front Right = 929 lbs.

Rear Left = 871 lbs.                   Rear Right = 864 lbs.

Wheel clearance

Wheel clearance

Wheel base remained the same…give or take a few centimeters.  The original wheel base measured was 57″ 7/16.  The after measurement with the IRS is about the same.  It’s hard to get an exact number like before with the SRA, because on a SRA the tires sit flat and a measurement is exact.  On the IRS each tire sits differently, not perfectly flat.  So to get a proper number you have to measure at 2 locations on the tire and get the average.  Anyway, it was close enough to say, that it remained the same.


IRS Install: IRS installed for good

Now the IRS is ready for permanent installation.  The cradle is bolted in once again, all the components are added.  Everything goes in the way it came out, as far as gas tank, shocks, springs, brakes and exhaust.

IRS cradle

The IRS exhaust is installed, and the passenger side needed to be shortened and re-directed a bit.




Also, the rear hanger needs to be re-located a little towards the front of the car.

Exhaust hanger

IRS exhaust

A Steeda IRS sub-frame bracket is added to the IRS cradle bracket, pictured below with an arrow.  You can see it painted black in the pic, welded to the IRS bracket and bolted into the sub-frame.  This adds support and reduces flex.

Steeda sub-frame plate

Rob also added a Steeda shock brace.  Now that there’s more weight in the rear, more than the foxbody is used to.  The shock brace will make a difference adding support and reducing flex also.

Steeda shock brace

IRS Install: New brake lines, hub & bushings

The brake lines on the foxbody are routed and mounted around the rear, so they cannot be used.  But you do need the driveshaft hub off the fox rear.

SRA rear

The foxbody driveshaft is used in this swap, it’s a little of a tight fit, but it fits.  The IRS Cobra driveshaft hub is much larger than the foxbody hub so you have to re-use the fox hub as seen below.

Driveshaft hubs

So next, new brake lines are made and a t-fitting is needed for this.

Brake t-fitting

New brake lines

New bushings for the shocks



For the IRS swap on the foxbody, you need 12mm bolts for the front arms of the cradle that go into the chassis.  The SN-95 use 14mm, these 12mm bolts are available at Maximum Motorsports.  You’ll also need thicker sleeves to go into the bushings of the arm that supports the bolts.

IRS Bolts

IRS front arm

IRS front arm

IRS Install: Test fit and bracket modification

The IRS fits in the foxbody Mustang, but modifications need to be made to bolt it in.  Once everything is removed test fit the cradle to make sure it goes in right and nothing is bent or mis-aligned.  Now’s the time to find out and make modifications if so.  Luckily mine lined right up with the help of some rubber hammers and a little persuasion.  The first thing to tackle is the brackets that bolt to the rear sub-frame, new holes need to be marked when the cradle is in.  Many IRS swaps that are done, people have drilled through the frame and just used a through bolt and a nut & washer on the other side and called it a day.  Realspeed had another idea, a slightly more time consuming process, but the final results would be more secure and look factory.

There are 4 bolt locations on the bracket, 2 from the side and 2 from the bottom.  Only one lines up to the frame.  The picture below diagrams this and the only hole that is usable is the quad shock hole, so a quad shock bolt can be used to hold the bracket here.  For the other 3 holes, the plan is to weld a nut to the inside of the frame, so the bolts can screw into them.


Hole #2 is cut out with a hole saw bit, large enough to fit a nut and washer behind it to be tack welded.  The factory hole is cut out as well to make enough room to push a plate through…see pictures #2 & #3 below.


Rob is using a 1/2″ bolt for hole #2, so he welded a washer to a nut.  You need two of these total, one for each side.


Homemade nuts

He then made this welded plate/nut for holes #3 and #4, in which he is using 7/16″ bolts.  You need to make two these, one for each side.


With the hole #2 large enough, Rob passes through the plate and sets it to line up with holes #3 & #4 at the bottom of the sub-frame, then tacks it in.


Tack weld the washer/nut in place, make sure it is lined up correctly.

Custom washer/nut


Then add a little steal to the exposed hole, grind, sand and paint.


And the IRS cradle bracket is bolted in, perfect fit.  Looks factory.

IRS bracket

IRS Install: The tear down

First, the guys put the car on the scales to get an initial weight.  A total of 3327 w/o driver for my LX convertible.

Weight scale

Tear down begins.  Probably the easiest part, just unbolt and take off everything.  Remove the gas tank, rear, shocks, springs, control arms, brakes, etc..  The exhaust is cut off before the muffler.

Tear down

Tear down

Removed stuff


Old SRA stuff

Tear down



IRS install begins and Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords is here

  Muscle Mustangs & Fast Ford’s guy is down to take pictures and document the IRS swap for their April 2013 issue.



The IRS was disassembled and the only thing it needed was a-arm bushings.  I purchased Maximum Motorsport’s IRS Rear Grip Package, “The Basics”, which is a set of Delrin upper & lower control arm bushings…plus shims, crush sleeves and grease.

IRS a-arms

IRS cradle assembly

IRS cradle



Plenty of before shots are taken before the rip out.