With the motor in and running, only the finishing touches are left to do.
I didn’t notice this or read anything about this issue. But, Dan the owner has a good eye and knowledge of road racing cars. And he didn’t like the drive-line angle of the motor and trans. If I had known or anticipated this issue, I would of took more pictures. Therefore, I only have after photos. But, the driveline angle was too steep, steeper than stock. Thus resulting in a motor that sits high in the front, and the trans tail sitting low. This is evident in swaps when the nothing is done, the motor tilts down at the firewall. Ideal, would be an angle that was closest to level and weight distribution would be better as well.
Maximum Motorsport’s offers 1 inch and 1/2 inch k-member spacers. We decided to start with 1/2 spacers, I didn’t want the k-member to sit too low on these NY streets.
A spacer was also added to the trans cross-member.
The final result with the 1/2 inch spacers was a stock driveline angle, and we were happy with that. I was afraid the 1 inch spacers would drop the k-member too low. Plus, by lowering the motor the more spacers added to the tie rod end connected to the spindle. We didn’t feel confident enough of the strength under heavy cornering.
Probably the toughest part of the swap was installing the hydroboost brake system. Finding one is easy, they’re all over eBay for cheap. The issue here is, how to integrate a SN95 hydroboost to the fox-body?
The obstacle here is, the ends of each hydroboost do not match. The end is a hoop that attaches to a pin on the brake pedal in the pedal assembly. But the hoop on the fox-body is angled down and the SN95 is straight. This is an issue if you try to mount the SN95 hydroboost to fox pedals. It doesn’t reach and if you try and fab something, it would work at an angle and will create problems down the road. Others have cut and welded the fox hoop onto the SN95 hydroboost end. We tried this on a spare unit, and it did not work so well. Rob was able to break the end off with hard pounding on the brake pedal.
Another option is to bolt in the SN95 pedal assembly into the fox. Rob looked into this, but the Sn95 pedals bolt to the top of the steering column and the fox pedals bolt to the firewall. This looked like a big custom fabrication.
Our final solution was to fabricate the SN95 brake pedal to fit the fox pedal assembly. The pic below has both assemblies, the fox-body is on the left and the SN95 is on the right. Notice each brake pedal, the fox is straight and the SN95 is angled.
With the fox brake pedal on the left and the SN95 is on right. Notice the shafts on top, which house the pedal spring. Because the fox is straight, the shafts are equal length on each side. The SN95 pedal is angled, therefore the shaft is shorter on one side. In order to fit the SN95 pedal on the fox assembly, Rob cut a section of the shaft off on one side. By cutting the proper amount on the left side, the pedal mounts more to left. This actually works out, because the pedal is angled to the right and the small pin below the shaft which attaches to the hydroboost, is now in the proper position.
Below is the SN95 brake pedal mounted on the fox-body assembly.
Next is re-fitting the fox-body pedal assembly to the firewall to accept the new SN95 hydroboost. The opening needs to be grinded out a bit, and the four holes in the firewall for the mounting bolts don’t exactly line up like the old fox brake booster. The holes need to be drilled out and expanded a little. Spacers needed to be machined for proper fitment.
When the hydroboost was installed, the top fitting did not clear the windshield washer motor.
A special right-angle fitting was found and saved the build!
I had a custom heat shield fabricated from a single piece of aluminum.
The Maximum Motorsport strut bar’s passenger arm was cut, bent and welded back to clear the hydroboost.
The engine cover was notched out to fit the strut bar.
Every fits, and pieces were powder-coated.